Taking Your Puppy to the Vet

If your new puppy is your first animal, you're going to have to choose a veterinarian. You might consult friends, decide by convenience, or perhaps visit a few vets around your area. I decided upon my local Denver veterinarian because of convenience, but was ultimately persuaded by meeting with one of the vets. Most veterinarians are happy to meet with you even before you have actually gotten your puppy. Meeting with a vet is sure to help you decide wether the office atmosphere and veterinarian are right for your and your new dog.

A Puppy's First Visit
As I mentioned in an earlier post and will repeat again, take your puppy to the vet BEFORE bringing him home for the first time. After bringing him home, you and your family are bound to get attached to the puppy and if for some reason your vet discovers the next day that your puppy is unhealthy, you've got yourself a problem. So make an appointment that is compatible with the time you will be bringing your puppy home from the breeder or shelter. When you do take your puppy to see the vet for the first time, your vet will check your puppy's lungs, ears, heart, nose, skin, and joints. Your vet will also give your puppy his first immunizations. But don't worry, they won't bother your puppy at all. Getting these immunizations is essential. They will protect your dog against liver and kidney infection, hepatitis, and various other viral diseases dog's are prone to. (Here's a list of the most common dog diseases.) These vaccinations are given in a two stage process. The first round will be given on your first visit when your puppy is still about 8-weeks old, and the follow-up booster shots will be given a month later. Don't forget these booster shots! Without them, your puppy's vaccinations won't protect them for long. Even though this first trip may sound like an invasive stress-inducing procedure, it's really not. My Denver veterinarian made sure my puppy was completely relaxed and comfortable, and the visit proved extremely informative for us, his new owners.

Worms
Parasites can affect your dog at anytime, the most common of which are tapeworm and roundworm. These parasites can live both inside your dog or in its skin and fur.

• Tapeworms - Tapeworms can hit your dog at any time in its life although they are less common in puppies. Tapeworms live in the small-intestine and because they are a parasite, will steal nutrients from your dog. Oftentimes, fleas and lice can lead to a tapeworm infestation.You will know if your dog has tapeworms if little rice-grain looking pieces exist in their feces. Your vet will know exactly what to do if your dog has tapeworms. Today, there is a simple and quick cure. My vet at my Denver Animal Hospital recommends treating my dog for tapeworms every 6-months as a preventative measure. If you believe your dog has tapeworm, PetMD has an extensive list of symptoms to read up on.

• Roundworms - It is almost certain that your puppy has roundworms. Almost all puppies do and many are actually born with them. Your vet will likely de-worm your puppy, which is a routine procedure and should not worry you. Your veterinarian might also instruct you on how to treat them from home. This may be in a one-time dose or a treatment given every 3 weeks until the puppy is about 6 months old. 

Fleas

Fleas are the single most common parasite dogs encounter. They cause a variety of skin problems and should be treated with care. Fleas live in groups and thrive in warm places like your dog's fur coat and in your heated home. Because fleas are so small, they can be hard to detect. One technique you can try is rubbing some of your dogs hair on a piece of white paper and dampen it slightly. If you can see red smearing, your dog has fleas. If your dog does has fleas, treatment is not the problem - prevention is. Again, your vet will have recommendations to prevent fleas which could be a spray or a monthly pill.

Training Tips #6: Behavior Problems!

By now you're well underway with the training process. Your dog has learned to sit, heel, and come when called. Yet this doesn't mean you have a dream dog! Behavioral problems can develop at anytime and it's important to catch them early. Most problems with a dog's behavior are a result of the dog thinking that a particular behavior is okay. Chewing, jumping up, and other common problems can arise because the dog has not been taught otherwise. Many times, dogs actually believe bad habits are endorsed. Perhaps you cuddle with your puppy on the couch when it's young. As the dog grows older and larger, how is it supposed to know sitting on the coach is no longer allowed? It's important for you to know why your dog has developed a bad habit before learning how to stop the habit in a way your dog will understand.

The Dominance Problem

Throughout these training tip posts, we've explored the importance of you being dominant over your dog. As long as your dog knows he's low on the totem pole compared to humans, no serious problems will arise. Serious problems like biting arise when your dog starts to think that in fact, he is the dominant one. Sometimes your dog will consider himself inferior to you, his owner, but dominant over other humans, mainly small children. Ever hear of a dog who isn't good around kids? That's a result of the dog considering himself dominant. Unfortunately, in rare cases, some dogs with severe dominance problems have to be put down or moved from home. If your dog has a dominance problem, your whole family will need to cooperate to fix the problem. If biting is an issue, the first step to reestablishing your dominance is for your whole family to ignore your dog. My Denver veterinarian is certain that being ignored is the worst punishment a dog can have. Don't speak to him, look at him, or play with him. Even when he starts to look for attention, continue to ignore. When you can, put a long leash or your dog so that you have control from a distance. When your dog begins to engage in is bad behavior (like sitting on the coach), stop him from doing so with a sudden jerk of the leash. This process will help to reassert your authority. Another tactic to help the dominance problem is to make the dog wait when being fed. When you do set down the bowl, do not set it by the dog. Instead, make your dog come to you for his food. Once again, continue to ignore. If your dog decides he wants attention (which he probably will do quickly), make him come to you and ONLY begin to respond to him when you feel his behavior has improved. Be sure your dog is not allowed on chairs, on the coach, or in your room. These are all places of dominance. The Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital I take my pets to advises consulting your veterinarian if a dominance problem starts getting out of hand.

Barking
Barking is a bad habit that can develop for many reasons and is often difficult to cure. If possible, the barking problem should be addressed while your dog is still a young puppy. Often barking is a way for your dog to get attention. If, when your dog barks, you approach him and pet him to calm him down, the message sent is that barking rewards him with attention and pets.

Biting our of Fear
Your dog's best weapon is its jaw. In some cases, a dog develops the habit of using that weapon when it is startled or in fear and can not run away. Socializing your puppy at a young age usually results in a less fearful adult dog. If your puppy is not socialized, it can develop a fear of people other than its family and owner. If you believe your dog has developed this fear, the only way to overcome it is to slowly introduce your dog to new people in comfortable settings (also try having your dog's new acquaintances give him treats). The more people it meets, the less it will fear humans.


The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants has many interesting articles you can check out to learn more about bog behavior and tactics for addressing bad habits.

Training Tips #5: Obedience

You've got house-training well underway, your dog has been socialized, and you're beginning to establish yourself as the dominant "pack-leader." What next? The answer is demanding obedience. When you dog becomes fully obedient, it means you feel safe with them in any public setting. You know they will come when called and not misbehave. When your dog has reached the stage of true obedience, treats become less and less necessary. Reaching this stage comes down to you and your dog mastering certain basic commands. And like any mastery, reaching true obedience requires time and effort. Even though obedience sounds like a harsh term to apply to a dog, like so many other concepts I have written about, dogs actually enjoy being obedient because they enjoy pleasing their owners. My Denver veterinarian and I have compiled a few tips to help you and your dog through obedience training.

Patience
Just like in all other training steps, keeping calm and patient remains important through the obedience training stage. The biggest problem with loosing patience is that your dog gets confused, and a confused dog won't learn quickly. Dog's always react what happening in the present, not to what may have happened a few minutes ago. Let's look at an example of how loosing patience puts you a step behind - You throw your dog a tennis ball and instead of following my tip in the last post to just ignore the dog, you begin calling it. You call and you call and your dog doesn't respond. You finally walk up to the dog and scold him. This accomplished absolutely nothing. Your dog won't associate the fact that you called to him a few minutes ago with the fact that he is getting scolded. All you will accomplish is confusion. Even worse, your dog might learn that when he hears his owner calling, he will be scolded if his owner catches him. The moral of this story: think like your dog.

Learning to Heel
We covered the different kinds of collars, the process of getting accustomed to a leash, and how to properly teach your dog to walk with you. The next step is the heel. The reason for the heel is to teach your dog to walk with you on a leash without pulling (a skill most dogs in your local park have probably not acquired). By the time you start heel training, you dog should already be used to the feeling of the collar and leash. It is best to teach the heel in a non-distracting setting like your backyard, where other dogs won't interrupt your training. Here's the teaching strategy: Walk your dog around your yard keeping a loose leash. At the point your puppy begins to pull, say "heel," stop walking and have him come to you (use treats if necessary). Don't tug on the leash. Continue walking and repeat this process. Eventually, your puppy will begin to associate the "heel" command with a treat and praise.

My vet at the Denver Animal Hospital recommends another strategy. Fill a pop can with small rocks. Again, walk with your dog around your yard. As soon as your dog gets ahead of you and begins to pull, thrown the pop can full of pebbles out in front of your puppy. The sound will alarm him and he will learn not to pull by associating the surprise sound with getting ahead of you on the leash.

It is worth considering the purchase of an extending leash like the one found here. These leashes allow for more flexibility and greater range of where your dog can walk, but without loosing control. This can also be a great training tool. Let your dog run in front of you while connected to one of these leashes until he feels as if he is running free. Then, suddenly, apply the leash break. This sudden jolt will indicate to your dog that the leash is to restrain him and is not a toy to pull against.

Sit/Down
Teaching your dog the "sit" and "down" commands is the next step. You may already have some practice with the sit if you follow my tip about the proper way to present your dog with food. One place to start is to trick your dog into sitting. This can be accomplished when your dog is on his restraining leash by holding a treat just behind his head. He will naturally sit in an effort to get the treat. When doing this say "Sit" and he will begin to learn that the process of sitting gets him a treat and is good.

After your puppy has learned to sit, you can work on the "down" command. To teach "down," first have your dog sit. Then hold a treat low to the ground to the point where your dog is bending over. Then say "down" while you gently push your puppy down and hold the treat of the floor. Hold your puppy gently down and he will be encouraged to stay there by your treat!

Training Tips #4: Being the Pack-Leader

I've mentioned the term "pack-leader" quite a few times in my training posts. This is because the best way to train a puppy is to understand its nature. And a puppy's nature comes from animals who live in packs, with a "pack-leader" to follow and give direction. It it your job as the dog trainer to be your puppy's pack-leader. Whenever you are experiencing difficulties, ask your self, "Am I being a firm and strong pack-leader?" Their history of living in a pack with the leader leaves dogs with a strong awareness of who's dominant and who's not. Naturally, puppies try to elevate themselves in this hierarchy of dominance to a point where they are the "pack-leaders." Different breeds will seek to do this to different degrees. (Terriers are some of the most "dominant" dogs.) Thus, it is essential that you always remain on top, never letting your puppy think he's your pack-leader. And remember, being your dog's leader is in no way mean or strict. In fact, most dogs enjoy being in a "follower" role and will gladly accept that position if you prove a worthy leader. In that role they are not worried about keeping things under control. Establishing your role as the dominant pack-leader should start as soon as you bring your puppy home. Here are a few tips from me and my vet at the Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital that will help you to fill your proper role.

Grooming
I discussed some proper grooming techniques and equipment in an earlier post. Now you can use that information and apply it to training. Holding and handling your dogs tells it that you are in control. The process of grooming is a good example. By handling your dog on a regular basis, you, the groomer, are indicating to the dog that you are dominant and that what you says goes. In the beginning, many puppies will struggle and try to avoid being groomed. You must not let them avoid the process and instead show you are serious about getting it done.

Feeding
Here's a tip I picked up from my local Denver veterinarian: You eat before your dog eats. Even if it's easier to feed your dog before yourself some nights, this habit can send the signal to your dog that they are more dominant than you. Remember, dogs are more observant than you think! Don't believe it?-Check our this PBS special! You and your family should sit down, eat your dinner, and only feed your puppy after you are complete. Feeding time is also a great teaching time. I like to get a bit of training in with these 4 quick steps:

1. Poor the food into your puppy's bowl and show him the food.
2. Before placing the bowl on the ground, make your puppy sit.
3. After he sits, put the food bowl on the ground, but don't let him get to it yet. Hold him back for a moment or two while you say "stay."
4. Finally, let your puppy dig in as the reward.

Meal after meal of practice will help teach your puppy to sit, stay, and be patient.

Biting

Never let your puppy's playful mouthing become a forceful nip. As I mentioned in Training Tips #3, use your assertive "No" with a gentle tap on the nose to tell your puppy nipping is not okay. Gone unchecked, nipping can turn into the bad habit of biting.

Playing Vs. Fighting

Puppies are playful creatures and playing with people and toys is an important part of their development. Yet not all "games" are okay, and some can even lead to lasting bad habits. Tug-of-war is a classic game that both humans and dogs love to play. But just like on the playground at school, tug-of-war is a game to establish strength and dominance. While playing tug-of-war, your puppy thinks it has a chance of winning dominance over you. This is a game that should be avoided. Playing with a ball, on the other hand, is a great game for your puppy. The best way to turn ball play into a training technique is to teach your puppy to fetch. Reward your puppy greatly when it bring the ball back to you. If it doesn't, simply ignore it. Too many inexperienced trainers will call and call for the dog when it doesn't return the ball. Yet calling it's name is giving it attention. The worst punishment a dog can have is being ignored. So if your puppy decides to run with the ball and not bring it back, just turn your back and say nothing to it.

Training Tips #3: Starting Training

After your dog gets comfortable with your home, meets some new dogs and people, learns the basics of "No," and begins on the process of house training, it's time for some early learning of other commands. It's easy to get frustrated with your dog during this stage. Avoid scolding your dog at all costs. Often the mix between scolding and praising will confuse a young puppy. If you constantly scold your dog, it will learn to run away much faster than it will learn to "come."

"Come" Command
Many puppies instinctually come to you when you talk, move or do just about anything. This makes it easy for them to learn that when their name it called, it means "come." Try calling your puppy by its name and rewarding it with a treat when it comes. This simple command if often the easiest thing to teach a young dog. If your puppy doesn't pick up on the command so quickly, don't loose patience. For some puppies it will take much longer to learn than for others.

Walking with a Leash
Training Tips #1 discusses the different kinds of collars you should consider trying out. When the proper collar is selected, its time to learn how to walk with a leash. This is another one of those things that some new dog owners forget actually has to be learned. But think about it, it would be pretty odd for you to suddenly have limited control over where you are free to stroll. The same feeling goes for dogs. It is not uncommon for puppies to try to scratch off their collar the first time you put it on. Try to distract your puppy with a toy or petting for the first few minutes. Next you will need to attach a leash. As I mentioned in the earlier post, let your puppy run freely with the leash dragging for a few minutes. When you do pick up the leash, hold it lightly at first and don't tug on it. The goal here is to get your puppy accustomed to the new feeling, not to take your puppy on a forced march. Finally, hold treats by your side to direct your puppy where to walk. Bribery is the best tactic for teaching your dog to walk with you.

Car Sickness
Some basic signs that your puppy is experiencing car-sickness include whining, drooling, uneasiness, and vomiting. When I first got my puppy, his car-sickness was so bad I took him into my local Denver Veterinarian. My vet told me that overcoming car-sickness is actually a matter of early training. It's extremely important that if you encounter the car-sickness problem, you deal with it quickly. If ignored, your dog will learn to fear the car and can develop the reflex of salivating upon being put into a car. A few simple tactics for overcoming mild car-sickness are facing your dog forward in the car and rolling down the windows. A light breeze and even pressure is sometimes a quick cure for the problem. Other times, just driving your puppy for short periods can fix the problem. If a puppy knows he can go in the car without vomiting at least for a short while, longer trips because easier and easier. Unfortunately for my puppy, this strategy wasn't enough. We ended up taking another trip into my veterinarian in Denver at which point my vet recommended travel sickness pills for long trips. I give these pills for my dog about an hour before a long drive. One side-effect seems to be sleepiness but apart from that the pills have cured the problem. Most dogs will overcome the problem in time. It is crucial however, that you address it early.

For more discussion of the car-sickness problem, see here.

Training Tips #2: First Steps

Some owners give up on the training process because they convince themselves that their dog just can't learn it. This is almost never the case. Think about it, between seeing eye dogs, police dogs, and dogs in the movies, the species can sure learn amazing things. So if you're dog is struggling with a simple "stay" or "sit," the truth is, it's probably not the dog that's struggling - it's you. If a dog can learn to sniff out drugs and bombs, your dog can definitely learn some simple obedience. Besides, dogs enjoy being trained. They look for ways to please their owners and love the challenge of learning new things.

Socializing
In Training Tips #1, I wrote about the first steps when bringing home your new dog. Mainly, not to overwhelm them and to take things slowly at first. But when your puppy or new dog gets adjusted to the home environment, meeting new people and new dogs is extremely important. My Denver Veterinarian is adamant that the more your puppy socializes with other dogs and humans, the less likely they are to develop behavioral problems later in life. When your puppy meets new people, have them hold him so that he begins to understands that humans are friendly. Your puppy should get its second round of vaccinations before coming into close contact with other dogs. While your puppy's immune system is still developing, it is more susceptible to catching viruses from other dogs (other dogs you own are an exception to this rule because you can be sure that the other dog has had his vaccinations). I waited until my veterinarian in Denver gave me the two-thumbs-up (about 12-weeks old) before introducing my new puppy to the neighborhood dogs.

Beginning to Learn
One of the most difficult aspects of training for new dog owners to learn is that scolding is okay. Sometimes it's difficult to speak harshly to an innocent puppy, yet it is absolutely necessary to establish your dominance. Learning what "No" means is the fist thing puppies need to learn. A simple technique is to give your puppy a slight tap on the nose while sternly saying "No" when they begin to engage in bad behavior like chewing a shoe. Soon you puppy will learn that the word "No" and that the action of getting tapped on the nose means to stop doing something.

When a puppy nips or bites someone, it is in indication that they believe they are dominant over the person they nipped. This is another instance where it is crucial to give a tap and a loud "No" so your puppy learns at an early age that nipping is not okay. A common mistake first time dog trainers run into is thinking that the gentle nipping is "puppy play" or just "cute." If this habit is left unchecked it can develop into a biting problem at a later age.

House Training
House training should be a top priority in the training process to avoid carpet stains and constant clean-up. Just like we aren't born into this world potty-trained, puppies will come to your house with no concept of where and where not to go to the bathroom. The good news is, relieving themselves outside is actually in a dogs nature. If a puppy were to continue to live with its mother, it would begin to imitate how its mother relieves herself outside. Soon it would naturally learn to be completely house trained. But because you are now your puppy's mother, you're going to have to do the teaching. The staff at my Denver Animal Hospital recommend two techniques for house-training your puppy. For the first technique, when you see your puppy go into that hunched position and you know they are about to go, immediately pick him up and take him outside. This method will help your puppy learn quickly but the downside is that you must always be watching. Dog Whisperer Cesar Millan always says that rewarding your puppy with a treat after it relieves itself outside will help your puppy learn even faster. The second method is a bit more complicated but requires less watching. You should cover the floor where your dog plays with newspaper so that your puppy gets used to going on the newspaper. Over the course of a few days, gradually make the newspaper surface smaller. Eventually, when your puppy is only performing is natural duties in one area, move that newspaper outside. Your puppy will then learn that it should only relieve itself out side. The best strategy is to actually use these two methods simultaneously. So set-up the newspaper but if you catch your dog about to go, pick him up and carrying him outside. Good luck!

Grooming and Bathing Your Dog

Dog grooming has because somewhat of and art and people create careers around designing the perfect look for a dog. Yet if you're not willing to spend the big bucks for a professional, you're going to need to do the grooming yourself. Grooming your dog is an essential habit to get into. It serves a variety of purposes. First off, grooming keeps your dog with clean and healthy fur or hair (depending on the breed.) Second, grooming keeps your dog looking and smelling nice. Matted dog hair is unattractive and can be uncomfortable for a dog. So keep your dog looking good by grooming regularly. Another benefit of grooming many people don't recognize is that it serves as a great training tool. In my earlier post about training, I discussed the importance of establishing yourself as the "pack-leader." Grooming helps to do this by telling your dog that you are the one in charge (in a nice way). If your dog understands this, you've overcome the biggest hurdle of training. So groom your dog daily during the training period and as often as possible later on.

Do-It-Yourself Grooming

If you've bought a long-haired breed, I recommend you learn to enjoy the grooming process. Grooming can be an extremely rewarding process if you put the time and energy into making your long haired dog or poodle look show worthy! (Some poodle experts claim that grooming their dog for a show can be a week long process). If your dog is short-haired, you won't need to spend as much time grooming, but the process can't be ignored as it is essential to a clean and healthy coat.

For haired breeds, clippers are the most important tool you will need. My local Denver Veterinarian always says electric trimmers are the best because they ensure an even trim. There are a wide variety of options available with a wide range of prices. With this item I recommend spending the extra money for a professional quality trimmer. These trimmer will last you much longer and do the best job. You can find these trimmers at a PetSmart or online at Amazon. Don't forget that trimmers occasionally have to be sharpened and this is not a job you can do at home. There are plenty of services that will service your trimmers for a low cost.

I found that my breeder as well as my veterinarian in Denver had a lot of advice about grooming and tools. They both said that in addition to trimmers, a good brush is a must. But not all brushes are the same. The decision between a hard bristled brush and a soft one depends completely on the breed and is a question for the breeder. A hard brush is great for removing loose hair but is not gentle enough for all coats.

Different Coats

• Short Coat - Most short coat dogs never need professional work. Unfortunately they shed - a lot. There is no way to avoid it - With a short-coated dog, hair is going to be all over your home, carpets, and clothes. Grooming daily can help with a stiff bristled (not wire) brush.

• Rough Coat - Rough coated dogs are prone to matted hair. Again, daily brushing with a stiff bristled brush will help to avoid this. They shed less than short coats but that doesn't mean your home will be hair-free. The occasional trip to a professional groomer may be required.

• Long Coat - Long coated dogs require by far the most attention. Poodles and terriers require constant attention to their coats. You may have to get your long coated dog professionally trimmed as often as once per month. Before buying this kind of dog, make sure you are ready to put in the time, money, and effort into maintaining its hair. My vet at the Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital says that it is not rare for her to see owners complaining of itching dogs because the dog's hair is not kept properly. And always remember, if you try to give your long haired dog a big hair cut, you're going to regret it. Always go to a professional for major cuts.

Feeding Your Dog

Just a couple decades ago, you fed your dog scrap meat and dinner leftovers. Today, veterinarians dedicate entire careers to developing the proper dog diets. Dog food is now a major business. Each feed company advertises their product as a life-prolonging miracle food. When I got my first dog, my Veterinarian in Denver advised me on a proper diet, but it's important for you, the owner, to understand the basics of dog nutrition too.

The Basics
At a biological level, dog are carnivores. They have evolved from a traditionally meat eating species and have digestive systems and teeth designed to break down meat products. "But my dog will eat just about anything!" - Yes it's true. That's because as dogs have adapted to domestic environments, so have their digestive systems. If necessary, a dog could survive on a vegetarian diet but this is never recommended because meat provides important nutritional components. A meat diet ensures that your dog receives a balanced diet of fats, proteins, vitamins, and carbohydrates - all important for a healthy and energetic dog.

Kinds of Food
Moist diets come in tins and can be bought at all supermarkets. They typically must be used within 24 hours of opening and require a minimal amount of preparation. Dry diets are an alternative option and offer the benefit of being extremely easy to serve. In most cases, they can simply be scooped strait from bag to bowl. Some dogs will like a little bit of warm water poured on the dry food to soften it. Finally, semi-moist diet options are available but require more preparation than dry food because a carb or protein supplement usually needs to be stirred in. Whatever the kind of food, all manufactures these days add the proper minerals and nutrients your dog needs to live a healthy life. The best way to decide upon a diet is to to consult your vet. My vet at the local Denver Animal Hospital recommended a special diet while my new dog was still a puppy. The diet my vet recommended for the first few weeks was designed for growth needs. Other speciality diets exist for older dogs, dogs with kidney problems, pregnant dogs, and for other special circumstances. (As a side note, dogs should not share a food bowl because it is unlikely that the amount of food is distributed correctly.)

Obesity
One of the most common ailments vets at my Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital see today is dog obesity. According to PetMD, over 50% of the dog population in America is overweight. This is because most dog owners don't recognize that their pet is gaining weight. Some dog owners feel bad about not feeding their dog "enough" and others consider it mean to reduce their dogs meal ration. If your dog is obese, your vet might recommend a special obesity diet. This diet makes your dog full but is less calorific. To get an idea, if your dog is overweight and your target rate is about 30 pounds, a diet of 470 calories/day will result in a slow loss of weight. If your target rate is 10 pound, 200 calories/day will help reduce weight.


Chocolate!
We've all heard, "Keep that chocolate away from the dog!" That's because chocolate contains a chemical called theobromine which is a toxin to dogs. The question becomes, how much chocolate is too much chocolate? Well, if your dog eats a couple M&M's you're okay. Here's a rule to follow: For milk chocolate, a 10lb dog would be in danger range after eating 10oz. (A 30lb dog after eating 30oz. etc). The darker the chocolate, the more toxin it contains. A 10lb dog could be in danger after just 1oz. of bittersweet chocolate. So here's the moral of the story - don't panic if you drop an M&M on the ground, but never give your dog chocolate as a treat!

Phase 2: Settling Your Dog In

Coming Home

Brining home you new dog is an exciting time for both the family and the neighborhood. But it can also be overwhelming, especially for a young puppy. Naturally, everybody in a 5 mile radius of your home is going to want to come visit, pet your new family member, and hold an adorable puppy. It's important to recognize how stressful this can be for a young dog who has never been in such a social situation. After all,  in many cases, your new puppy has never been away from his or her mother.

The transition to a new home setting can also be stressful for older dogs. When you first bring the dog home, try not to overwhelm it. It's best to introduce your dog to its new home in a calm and relaxed environment. He's going to want to explore and sniff around the house, and run around the garden. When you sense that it's time to introduce your dog to human friends, don't do so in a large group. Have your friends visit your new dog two at a time, and don't rush the process.

First Trip to The Vet

• Your dog will begin to settle in quickly. One of the best things you can do to help with process along is to keep your dogs routine consistent.  Feed your dog at the same times each day and don't vary the food you give him. The more variations in your dog's routine you create, the most adaption is required of the dog. 

Going to the vet is almost always a slightly traumatic experience for a dog. Going the first time is even for difficult. My veterinarian at my local Denver Animal Hospital recommends, if possible, bringing your dog to the vet strait from the breeder or shelter you buy him at. If you can do this, you have one less hassle for you and one less stressful trip for your new dog. One other benefit of going strait to the vet is that if, in the unlikely chance that the vet assesses that there is a problem with your dog, it is easier to return him before introducing him to your home.

First Few Days

• You will, of course, spoil your new puppy with toys. And believe it or not, toys are a great tools for helping dogs settle in. By playing with new toys, dogs adapt faster to new surroundings and overcome fears. Only provide safe toys. These include balls (not too small for the dog to choke on) and other toys that don't have pieces coming out of them. Toys should be hard for the strong jaws all dogs have. My Denver Veterinarian advises against the use of bones because they can chip and dogs can swallow the sharp pieces. Instead, try a rawhide toy, which offers a dog the same satisfaction as chewing on a bone.

• Always provide lots of clean water (and be sure to show your dog where the water bowl is kept). Dogs need to drink a lot, so it's best to keep the water bowl full at all times. Remember, dogs are messy drinkers and have a tendency to bring dirt into the water bowl. If necessary re-fill the bowl with water so dirt doesn't build up. Buy a bowl that is too heavy for the dog to pick up and move - You don't want your puppy thinking the bowl is just another toy.

• The bed you provide for your dog is another important tool for helping your dog fit in to its new home. I recommend buying a machine-washable bed for the convenience and hygiene it offers. These beds can be bought online from retailers like PetSmart. Some dogs are perfectly comfortable with a simple blanket while others prefer a cushioned bottom. Whatever the style, dogs love warmth! Most importantly, you must ensure that you new dog sleeps in the bed (the bed might be in a crate). A strategy to help your dog get used to the bed is putting the bed in an area where there is nothing else comfortable to sleep on. Developing a sense of comfort in a bed will help the dog feel more comfortable with the home setting.

Buying a Dog Phase 1: What Type of Dog?

There are a lot of choices when it comes to deciding upon a dog to buy. And it can be a life changing decision. After all, you're choosing a new member of the family, one that will (hopefully) live with you for years to come. Of course, a dog's first function is to be a friend - An unconditional friend that never criticizes and complains.

Choosing a Breed
Picking the right breed of dog is an inherently personal decision. There are however, a few important guidelines to think about. First is size. Large dogs needs more room and a lot of exercise (although it is worth noting that some small dog breeds also need lots of exercise). My veterinarian at the Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital in Denver always says that the most overlooked consideration when buying a dog is the amount of needed exercise. If you don't have the time to walk your dog a long way, a smaller breed might be the right choice. But even more important than size in choosing the right breed is behavior. All breeds have unique behavioral characteristics and you should always research these traits before deciding upon a breed. For example, while terriers can be great with children, they can also be difficult to train. Sporting breeds are generally easy to train but require a lot of exercise. There are hundreds of breeds and crossbreds to choose from these days, and doing the research can really pay off when deciding upon the right dog for you.

The Cost
Unfortunately, some perspective dog buyers focus too much on the "cuteness" factor and too little on the cost factor. To begin with, buying a dog isn't cheap. Buying a puppy from a breeder can range anywhere from $300 to upwards of $1000 dollars. After the price of the dog, veterinary costs are usually the most significant part of the cost of owning a dog. The American Veterinary Medical Association and my Local Denver Veterinarian agree, sophisticated surgeries can cost well over $1000 and regular checkups are certainly not free. You may want to consider taking out a pet insurance policy to help avoid surprise costs. A lesser cost to consider is the cost of food. Feeding costs can vary greatly depending on both amount and brand of food. A 30-40 lb dog should be able to be fed for around $8 a week. Check out Web MD Pets for good recommendations about pet diets.

Pedigree
Don't believe the rumor that crossbred dogs are necessarily healthier than purebreds. Your vet would likely tell you that crossbreds can suffer from inherited diseases as well. In fact, an advantage of a purebred dog is that you know exactly what you're getting in terms of size and behavior. Crossbreds on the other hand can be less expensive and can have a certain behavior more suitable to your lifestyle. Some crossbreeds are better suited to people susceptible to allergies while offering the same charm of a normally allergenic dog.

Male or Female?
Choosing the gender of your dog is a decision to make early on in the process. Males and female dogs tend to have different outlooks on life. Sometimes males are more outgoing and are on average harder to train (but usually more responsive when trained). Overall, females are usually a better "family" pet. They tend to be less aggressive and don't wander like males do. Females also seem to be slightly more loving towards a human family. Once again, breed is the most important decision and matters much more in terms of behavior than gender does.

Making the Decision
Take your time when making the decision. Be sure you meet the dog and spend some time with it. (Make certain you are not buying from a puppy mill - see my earlier post). If possible, also try to meat the puppy's mother and father. Genetics is an important influence on your dogs health so gather as much information as possible by talking with the breeder about family history of disease. Different people say different things about what age to buy the puppy at. My Veterinarian in Denver recommends 8-weeks. This seems to be the perfect age to start training, but not too early that it disrupts the important early stage in puppy development. Most importantly, have fun with the process. Picking the right puppy is an exciting decision and the result is sure to bring joy to your life.

Puppy Mill Problem

Imagine having to live in an empty room with no entertainment, communication, or exercise. Thousands of dogs face these conditions everyday. A dog living in a "Puppy Mill" might never set foot on the ground, instead living its entire life in an metal cage. It might never play with a toy, ever be pet, or ever be apart of a family. In a puppy mill, the only goal is to impregnate dogs to deliver litters as fast as possible.

What is a Puppy Mill?
Puppy mills first arose in the 1950's as large-scale dog breeding operations aimed at creating large profits. Dogs born at puppy mills are often sold online (at reputable looking sites) or to large pet stores. Conditions at puppy mill facilities are almost always dangerous and extremely uncomfortable for the dogs. One common practice to minimize waste clean up is to keep the dogs in elevated wire cages, so that waste falls below and is easier to clean. These wire cages often cause cuts in dogs' paws that can lead to infection and pain. Food, water, and veterinary care are almost never adequate, and many "breeder dogs" will never in their lives see the outdoors.

Profits mean everything at puppy mills which means female dogs are given no recovery time between litters. As soon as it is possible for a breeder-dog to have another litter, they are quickly impregnated. When the dogs are no longer physically able to give birth they are usually killed.

Because dogs at puppy mills are not properly cared for and are inbred, unlike with private breeders, many of the dogs suffer from hereditary and diseases, most common of which are heart disease, blood disorders, and eye problems.


Political Action
Currently the ASPCA is leading the effort to adopt laws to outlaw the inhumane practices of the puppy mill industry. But regulating the puppy mill business is not easy. The biggest struggle arises in how to regulate online sellers. These kind of sellers fall into a federal regulation loop hole where they can only be regulated by the states. Not all states have laws against puppy mills and those that do don't inspect the puppy mill facilities. In addition, although some federal laws like the Animal Welfare Act and the 2008 Farm Bill do exist, enforcing them remains a major struggle. But there is hope. Currently pending is the 2011 Puppy Uniform Protection and Safety Act (PUPS) which aims to bring commercial dog breeders under federal regulation and close the online seller loophole.

Shopping Safely
Animal rights groups like the ASPCA and the Humane Society agree, the best way for consumers to fight puppy mills is to avoid buying puppy mill dogs. Here are a few tips:

• Adopt - Look first to your local shelters and rescues. Not only will you be saving a like by buying from one of these sources, you also guarantee that you're not supporting a puppy mill. When we bought our Golden, our veterinarian in Denver referred us to the Golden Retriever Rescue of the Rockies. We ended up adopting a dog who had been rescued from the tragic conditions of a puppy mill. Before she was rescued, she had never once played with a toy.

• Say No to a Pet Store - More likely than not, the cute puppies you see at your pet store came from a puppy mill. Often they are advertised as "pure-bred" dogs raised at a local breeder. Don't believe it. 

• Never Buy Online - The internet is the number one retail outlet for puppy mill owners. They often use fancy and reputable looking websites that falsely advertise healthy dogs. The vast majority of dogs sold online come from puppy mills.

• Buy from a Breeder - Buying from a small scale breeder is always a safe option. Be sure to meet you future dog's mother. That way you can be certain of the safe conditions your dog came from.

Dog Training Tips #1

Charm school is expensive and inconvenient. Some dog owners drop over a thousand dollars in the hope that a "Dog School" can turn their unruly monster into a lovable friend. But before you open your wallet to any self-proclaimed dog whisperer, give training a shot on your own. A few simple tips can transform the training process from struggle to success.

Start Early

Some people will tell you to wait  until your puppy is 8, 10, or even 12-weeks old to start training. But according to my Denver Veterinarian and also according to Dog Whisperer Cesar Millan, the earlier you start the better. After all, dogs come from a species that live in packs. Therefore, at a young age, dogs look for a "pack-leader" to follow. As the dog owner and trainer, it is your job to fill this role. Even though it may seem mean or harsh to speak sternly to a young puppy, in fact, this direction is what a dog looks for. It gives a dog comfort to know they have someone to follow. If a puppy senses that we have low confidence, bad habits like leash-pulling, barking, and even anxiety can develop.

Introduction to a Collar/Leash
When we took our first puppy into our Local Denver Veterinarian to get his vaccinations and first check-up, we spoke with the vet about choosing the right collar. "No dog is alike in the collar department," she told us. We had briefly tried out a traditional nylon collar but we struggled with its lack of control with such a new puppy. We ended up trying out a variety of other styles each with their own training benefits.

• Halter-Type Dog Collar - This collar gives you the utmost in control. These collars have a band that goes around the head and nose and gives you complete control over the dogs head and therefore control over your dog. Some people are weary of this collar because it resembles a muzzle. In fact, this is simply an alternative to a traditional collar and the look should not scare owners who are looking for more control away.
• Pronged Collars - According to the all the staff at the Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital, these collars should only be used for a short time during the training period. The collar has small prongs that lightly prong the dog if they pull excessively. Because of this mechanism, this collar should only be used as a last resort if other collars fail.
• Chain-Slip Dog Collar - This collar can be a great alternative to a pronged collar for unresponsive dogs during training sessions (Never leave this collar on a dog in a crate). I personally took this collar in to my local Denver Veterinarian to learn how to properly use it. With this collar, a quick tug helps tell your dog that their behavior is wrong.

Starting on a Leash

After you have selected the proper leash, its important to get your dog accustomed to the feeling of having something attached to it. Try attaching the collar when you are playing with your dog out in the yard, or when you are at home snuggling. This will help your dog to get used to the new feeling. Next, let your dog run around with the leash. Don't go immediately into walking. When you do begin to hold the leash, do not pull or attempt to get your dog to heel. Try other techniques like kneeling when you want the dog to stop.

Training Strategies

Treats are one of the simplest and best training tools available. That's not to say they should be used for ever, but for the first few months of training, using food as an incentive is a great strategy. For example, when first walking your dog on a leash, holding a treat by your side while walking can help your dog to learn what walking is all about. Stop and make your dog sit occasionally at which point you can give your puppy the treat.

Consistency is key while training. Face it, dogs are not as smart as humans. Variations between "Good Dog!" and "That's a good girl" can be confusing for a dog. Try keeping a standard phrase when encouraging your dog.

Patience is probably the most important virtue during training. My Veterinarian in Denver tells me that loosing patience is the number one reason people resort to sending their dog to training school. It's okay if your dog doesn't learn quickly. Even the smallest of improvements is a great sign!

Dogs at the Dentist?

We all go to the dentist routinely - so why shouldn't our cats and dogs? The answer is, they should. All of us have been told by our dentist that poor dental hygiene causes plaque build-up, and plaque build-up can cause gum disease and infection. The same goes for our pets. Years of bacteria thriving in your pet's mouth can have serious repercussions.  Yet studies show, dental care is one of the most ignored aspects of pet health. In fact, as my veterinarian in Denver pointed out, according to the AAHA, close to 75% of pet owners fail to provide recommended dental care to their pets.

Periodontal Disease
"Getting my dog's teeth cleaned? That's crazy!" - Actually it's not. Countless scientific studies show that pet's with clean mouths can live for up to 2 years longer than pets with dangerous plaque build-up. Why? Because a clean mouth leads to a healthy life. The most common disease arising from poor dental health is periodontal disease, an infection of the gum tissue around the teeth. Has your dentist ever warned you about gingivitis? Well dogs and cats get it too. We avoid the disease by brushing our teeth twice a day and flossing regularly. Unfortunately for our pets, the lack of brushing can lead to plaque and tartar growth which can ultimately result in gum decay, which leaves painful holes in our pet's mouth.

When is it time?
Of course, the best way to determine if you pet needs a teeth cleaning is to make a quick trip to your vet. When I last visited my local Denver veterinarian (before I knew anything about animal dental health) my vet immediately recognized that Maddie was in serious pain and needed a cleaning. But here are a few signs before you make the trip:

• Breath
• If your dog or cat's breath makes you wince, it might be time.
• Loose Teeth
• Loosing teeth is a sign of serious gum decay.
• Drooling
• Lots of dogs drool. But if drooling becomes excessive or irregular, it could be time for a teeth cleaning.
• Inflamed Gums
• Red and poofy gums are an indicator of gingivitis and could mean your dog or cat needs a cleaning.

Solution and Avoidance

Of course, one way to avoid dangerous gum disease is to bring your pet in regularly (according to my Denver Animal Hospital about once/year). But there are some easier and cheaper ways that help keep your animal's teeth clean.

• Canine Tooth Brushing Kit - That's right, a tooth brush for your dog. You can buy a brush and toothpaste made especially for dogs, or you can make your own and home with a piece of gauze for a brush and a baking soda/water mix for toothpaste.
• Hard Toys - Hard chew toys can dislodge plaque and bacteria from your dog's teeth.
• Hard food for cats - Just like chew toys for dog's, biting on hard items can keep teeth clean by stimulating the gum and dislodging harmful bacteria.

The Process

A dental cleaning is a routine process for veterinarians these days. Just like any concerned pet owner, before I had Maddie's teeth cleaned, I had my veterinarian at my Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital talk me through the procedure. 1) The vet preforms a pre-anesthetic exam. All that means is they take a peak inside your pet's mouth and determine what they can see as the problem. If a cleaning is necessary, the next step is, 2) anesthesia. All medical procedures have some risk, but my vet explained how modern anesthesia has extremely low risk. 3) After your pet receives the anesthesia, x-rays are often taken, just like the x-rays we get at our dentists. 4) The vet cleans and polishes the teeth. If the gums are badly decayed, some teeth may be removed. 5) Finally, the vet will treat the teeth with fluoride to help strengthen them against further bacterial infection.


Cost
I want to share a quick story here because my best advice is to shop around. I first went to the Firehouse Animal Hospital I wrote about in my first post, and true to the Google reviews the cost was unbelievable.  I was given a bid that amounted to almost a grand, so I decided to look at around at other Denver Animal Hospitals. I next visited a Denver Veterinarian a friend had recommended. The bid was less than $400 and the service was amazingly friendly.

So do some quick checks and take your pet in for an oral examination. They could be in great discomfort and you can't even tell.

First Trip To My Denver Veterinarian

8 years ago a small black cat showed up on my front porch in Denver, Colorado. It was skinny, thirsty, and lost. My husband and I's first thought - feed it! After a delicious dinner of chicken and milk (which we later found out to be a big no-no for cats), the cat was here to stay.

Of course, we tried our best to find it's owner. We contacted the Dumb Friends League, put up flyers, and alerted neighbors. We assumed the cat had wandered a block or two too far from home and that we would quickly get a call from a relieved neighbor. A week passed with no calls. Soon, we all came to realize that "Maddie" wasn't leaving and stage one in the adoption process was taking her to our Local Denver Veterinarian. We were new to cat-parenting and knew nothing about the array of vaccinations outdoor cats require. Yet our Denver Animal Hospital walked us through everything from ring-worm to feline leukemia. She informed us that Maddie had had a litter and that she was probably about a year old. We learned about a shampoo we needed to wash her with, we learned that cat's love milk but milk doesn't love them, and we even left with a little cat nip the veterinarian had grown herself. From the secretaries to the nurses, all the employees were friendly and great with Maddie. We left the vet comfortable that this was the Denver Veterinarian for us.

Upon returning home, Maddie was let into the house for the first time. She was apprehensive in the beginning, but soon grew comfortable with the indoor environment. We couldn't have been more excited to welcome a new member of the family. We hand't talked much about the idea of getting a pet, but finding Maddie was the perfect way for it to happen. I personally had always considered myself a dog person, but Maddie certainly changed my opinion. As we tell the story now, "Maddie adopted us - not the other way around."

Because of the delightful experience we had at our first visit to our Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital we returned a week later with a list of questions about Maddie and about taking care of cats. We wondered about how much to feed her, what kind of cat food to use, and how to train her to use a littler box. Most importantly, we were curious about the peculiar shape of Maddie's tail. It appeared to be in a complete knot and it looked as though she had two tails. We had tried finding the cause of the tail deformity using Web MD's Pet Site but found no clear answer. We asked the vet what she thought might be the cause of the tail loop and she said that there were two possible causes. 1) A birth defect and 2) An unfortunate encounter with a door! After an hour-long meeting, we left our vet (which is actually a Wheat Ridge Veterinarian) once again completely satisfied with the service we received.

Maddie is about 9 years old now and still going strong. She spends the days out doors and remains playful and energetic. She enjoys following us around the yard and tormenting the two terriers next door by slowly strolling across the top of the fence. We are lucky enough to have a cat who is extremely social with people (but a bit "catty" towards other cats). She watches TV with us and even has a high chair she sits on during family dinners. She still occasionally has to take a trip to the old Denver Veterinarian and we still see the same doctor.

Firehouse Veterinary Services

Most recently, I had the opportunity to stop in and visit Firehouse Veterinary services in Cherry Creek. Located at 6th and Downing, they service the Cheeseman Park area and Cherry Creek area of Denver.

While my visit was purely out of curiousity and I had no intention of actually becoming a customer, I wanted to see how my local Denver Veterinarian compared to the veterinarian I usually visit in Wheatridge.

Firehouse Veterinary clinic has an excellent location inside this smaller neighborhood in Denver and out of the local vets in the Denver area, they are definitely an "upscale" practice. According to the Denver Better Business Bureau I could not find that they were members as of yet. Seeming as they (VCA Firehouse Veterinary Clinic) are a newer clinic this makes sense. After reviewing the Better Business Bureau's website I decided that I would check out this company's reviews on Google, Yelp and other online review sources. According to what I found on Yelp, the first five reviews I scanned seemed to all have the same theme about this place, "It's too expensive", "I feel like I was taken for a ride" they screamed. I have heard the same general thing from other customers that I have talked to about the VCA Firehouse Animal Hospital.

Overall I am still happy with my veterinarian in Wheatridge. I find that her prices are not only competitive but her practice seems just as upscale and friendly as some of the more expensive practices that I have had the chance to visit over the last several years.