Spaying Your Puppy Can Save It's Life

Once you have immunized your pet, this would be a fantastic time to talk with your local veterinarian about spaying or neutering your pet. Taking on the responsibility of breeding a pet means a lot more than just taking care of some puppies are kitties once they are born and then selling them. For those owners that do not want to breed their pets, the choice of spaying or neutering is not so difficult and is desirable for numerous reasons, both behavioral and physical reasons. The biggest reason of course is prevention of the accidental conception and birth of unwanted litters of puppies or kittens.

Taking Your Puppy to the Vet

If your new puppy is your first animal, you're going to have to choose a veterinarian. You might consult friends, decide by convenience, or perhaps visit a few vets around your area. I decided upon my local Denver veterinarian because of convenience, but was ultimately persuaded by meeting with one of the vets. Most veterinarians are happy to meet with you even before you have actually gotten your puppy. Meeting with a vet is sure to help you decide wether the office atmosphere and veterinarian are right for your and your new dog.

A Puppy's First Visit
As I mentioned in an earlier post and will repeat again, take your puppy to the vet BEFORE bringing him home for the first time. After bringing him home, you and your family are bound to get attached to the puppy and if for some reason your vet discovers the next day that your puppy is unhealthy, you've got yourself a problem. So make an appointment that is compatible with the time you will be bringing your puppy home from the breeder or shelter. When you do take your puppy to see the vet for the first time, your vet will check your puppy's lungs, ears, heart, nose, skin, and joints. Your vet will also give your puppy his first immunizations. But don't worry, they won't bother your puppy at all. Getting these immunizations is essential. They will protect your dog against liver and kidney infection, hepatitis, and various other viral diseases dog's are prone to. (Here's a list of the most common dog diseases.) These vaccinations are given in a two stage process. The first round will be given on your first visit when your puppy is still about 8-weeks old, and the follow-up booster shots will be given a month later. Don't forget these booster shots! Without them, your puppy's vaccinations won't protect them for long. Even though this first trip may sound like an invasive stress-inducing procedure, it's really not. My Denver veterinarian made sure my puppy was completely relaxed and comfortable, and the visit proved extremely informative for us, his new owners.

Worms
Parasites can affect your dog at anytime, the most common of which are tapeworm and roundworm. These parasites can live both inside your dog or in its skin and fur.

• Tapeworms - Tapeworms can hit your dog at any time in its life although they are less common in puppies. Tapeworms live in the small-intestine and because they are a parasite, will steal nutrients from your dog. Oftentimes, fleas and lice can lead to a tapeworm infestation.You will know if your dog has tapeworms if little rice-grain looking pieces exist in their feces. Your vet will know exactly what to do if your dog has tapeworms. Today, there is a simple and quick cure. My vet at my Denver Animal Hospital recommends treating my dog for tapeworms every 6-months as a preventative measure. If you believe your dog has tapeworm, PetMD has an extensive list of symptoms to read up on.

• Roundworms - It is almost certain that your puppy has roundworms. Almost all puppies do and many are actually born with them. Your vet will likely de-worm your puppy, which is a routine procedure and should not worry you. Your veterinarian might also instruct you on how to treat them from home. This may be in a one-time dose or a treatment given every 3 weeks until the puppy is about 6 months old. 

Fleas

Fleas are the single most common parasite dogs encounter. They cause a variety of skin problems and should be treated with care. Fleas live in groups and thrive in warm places like your dog's fur coat and in your heated home. Because fleas are so small, they can be hard to detect. One technique you can try is rubbing some of your dogs hair on a piece of white paper and dampen it slightly. If you can see red smearing, your dog has fleas. If your dog does has fleas, treatment is not the problem - prevention is. Again, your vet will have recommendations to prevent fleas which could be a spray or a monthly pill.

Training Tips #6: Behavior Problems!

By now you're well underway with the training process. Your dog has learned to sit, heel, and come when called. Yet this doesn't mean you have a dream dog! Behavioral problems can develop at anytime and it's important to catch them early. Most problems with a dog's behavior are a result of the dog thinking that a particular behavior is okay. Chewing, jumping up, and other common problems can arise because the dog has not been taught otherwise. Many times, dogs actually believe bad habits are endorsed. Perhaps you cuddle with your puppy on the couch when it's young. As the dog grows older and larger, how is it supposed to know sitting on the coach is no longer allowed? It's important for you to know why your dog has developed a bad habit before learning how to stop the habit in a way your dog will understand.

The Dominance Problem

Throughout these training tip posts, we've explored the importance of you being dominant over your dog. As long as your dog knows he's low on the totem pole compared to humans, no serious problems will arise. Serious problems like biting arise when your dog starts to think that in fact, he is the dominant one. Sometimes your dog will consider himself inferior to you, his owner, but dominant over other humans, mainly small children. Ever hear of a dog who isn't good around kids? That's a result of the dog considering himself dominant. Unfortunately, in rare cases, some dogs with severe dominance problems have to be put down or moved from home. If your dog has a dominance problem, your whole family will need to cooperate to fix the problem. If biting is an issue, the first step to reestablishing your dominance is for your whole family to ignore your dog. My Denver veterinarian is certain that being ignored is the worst punishment a dog can have. Don't speak to him, look at him, or play with him. Even when he starts to look for attention, continue to ignore. When you can, put a long leash or your dog so that you have control from a distance. When your dog begins to engage in is bad behavior (like sitting on the coach), stop him from doing so with a sudden jerk of the leash. This process will help to reassert your authority. Another tactic to help the dominance problem is to make the dog wait when being fed. When you do set down the bowl, do not set it by the dog. Instead, make your dog come to you for his food. Once again, continue to ignore. If your dog decides he wants attention (which he probably will do quickly), make him come to you and ONLY begin to respond to him when you feel his behavior has improved. Be sure your dog is not allowed on chairs, on the coach, or in your room. These are all places of dominance. The Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital I take my pets to advises consulting your veterinarian if a dominance problem starts getting out of hand.

Barking
Barking is a bad habit that can develop for many reasons and is often difficult to cure. If possible, the barking problem should be addressed while your dog is still a young puppy. Often barking is a way for your dog to get attention. If, when your dog barks, you approach him and pet him to calm him down, the message sent is that barking rewards him with attention and pets.

Biting our of Fear
Your dog's best weapon is its jaw. In some cases, a dog develops the habit of using that weapon when it is startled or in fear and can not run away. Socializing your puppy at a young age usually results in a less fearful adult dog. If your puppy is not socialized, it can develop a fear of people other than its family and owner. If you believe your dog has developed this fear, the only way to overcome it is to slowly introduce your dog to new people in comfortable settings (also try having your dog's new acquaintances give him treats). The more people it meets, the less it will fear humans.


The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants has many interesting articles you can check out to learn more about bog behavior and tactics for addressing bad habits.

Training Tips #5: Obedience

You've got house-training well underway, your dog has been socialized, and you're beginning to establish yourself as the dominant "pack-leader." What next? The answer is demanding obedience. When you dog becomes fully obedient, it means you feel safe with them in any public setting. You know they will come when called and not misbehave. When your dog has reached the stage of true obedience, treats become less and less necessary. Reaching this stage comes down to you and your dog mastering certain basic commands. And like any mastery, reaching true obedience requires time and effort. Even though obedience sounds like a harsh term to apply to a dog, like so many other concepts I have written about, dogs actually enjoy being obedient because they enjoy pleasing their owners. My Denver veterinarian and I have compiled a few tips to help you and your dog through obedience training.

Patience
Just like in all other training steps, keeping calm and patient remains important through the obedience training stage. The biggest problem with loosing patience is that your dog gets confused, and a confused dog won't learn quickly. Dog's always react what happening in the present, not to what may have happened a few minutes ago. Let's look at an example of how loosing patience puts you a step behind - You throw your dog a tennis ball and instead of following my tip in the last post to just ignore the dog, you begin calling it. You call and you call and your dog doesn't respond. You finally walk up to the dog and scold him. This accomplished absolutely nothing. Your dog won't associate the fact that you called to him a few minutes ago with the fact that he is getting scolded. All you will accomplish is confusion. Even worse, your dog might learn that when he hears his owner calling, he will be scolded if his owner catches him. The moral of this story: think like your dog.

Learning to Heel
We covered the different kinds of collars, the process of getting accustomed to a leash, and how to properly teach your dog to walk with you. The next step is the heel. The reason for the heel is to teach your dog to walk with you on a leash without pulling (a skill most dogs in your local park have probably not acquired). By the time you start heel training, you dog should already be used to the feeling of the collar and leash. It is best to teach the heel in a non-distracting setting like your backyard, where other dogs won't interrupt your training. Here's the teaching strategy: Walk your dog around your yard keeping a loose leash. At the point your puppy begins to pull, say "heel," stop walking and have him come to you (use treats if necessary). Don't tug on the leash. Continue walking and repeat this process. Eventually, your puppy will begin to associate the "heel" command with a treat and praise.

My vet at the Denver Animal Hospital recommends another strategy. Fill a pop can with small rocks. Again, walk with your dog around your yard. As soon as your dog gets ahead of you and begins to pull, thrown the pop can full of pebbles out in front of your puppy. The sound will alarm him and he will learn not to pull by associating the surprise sound with getting ahead of you on the leash.

It is worth considering the purchase of an extending leash like the one found here. These leashes allow for more flexibility and greater range of where your dog can walk, but without loosing control. This can also be a great training tool. Let your dog run in front of you while connected to one of these leashes until he feels as if he is running free. Then, suddenly, apply the leash break. This sudden jolt will indicate to your dog that the leash is to restrain him and is not a toy to pull against.

Sit/Down
Teaching your dog the "sit" and "down" commands is the next step. You may already have some practice with the sit if you follow my tip about the proper way to present your dog with food. One place to start is to trick your dog into sitting. This can be accomplished when your dog is on his restraining leash by holding a treat just behind his head. He will naturally sit in an effort to get the treat. When doing this say "Sit" and he will begin to learn that the process of sitting gets him a treat and is good.

After your puppy has learned to sit, you can work on the "down" command. To teach "down," first have your dog sit. Then hold a treat low to the ground to the point where your dog is bending over. Then say "down" while you gently push your puppy down and hold the treat of the floor. Hold your puppy gently down and he will be encouraged to stay there by your treat!

Training Tips #4: Being the Pack-Leader

I've mentioned the term "pack-leader" quite a few times in my training posts. This is because the best way to train a puppy is to understand its nature. And a puppy's nature comes from animals who live in packs, with a "pack-leader" to follow and give direction. It it your job as the dog trainer to be your puppy's pack-leader. Whenever you are experiencing difficulties, ask your self, "Am I being a firm and strong pack-leader?" Their history of living in a pack with the leader leaves dogs with a strong awareness of who's dominant and who's not. Naturally, puppies try to elevate themselves in this hierarchy of dominance to a point where they are the "pack-leaders." Different breeds will seek to do this to different degrees. (Terriers are some of the most "dominant" dogs.) Thus, it is essential that you always remain on top, never letting your puppy think he's your pack-leader. And remember, being your dog's leader is in no way mean or strict. In fact, most dogs enjoy being in a "follower" role and will gladly accept that position if you prove a worthy leader. In that role they are not worried about keeping things under control. Establishing your role as the dominant pack-leader should start as soon as you bring your puppy home. Here are a few tips from me and my vet at the Wheat Ridge Animal Hospital that will help you to fill your proper role.

Grooming
I discussed some proper grooming techniques and equipment in an earlier post. Now you can use that information and apply it to training. Holding and handling your dogs tells it that you are in control. The process of grooming is a good example. By handling your dog on a regular basis, you, the groomer, are indicating to the dog that you are dominant and that what you says goes. In the beginning, many puppies will struggle and try to avoid being groomed. You must not let them avoid the process and instead show you are serious about getting it done.

Feeding
Here's a tip I picked up from my local Denver veterinarian: You eat before your dog eats. Even if it's easier to feed your dog before yourself some nights, this habit can send the signal to your dog that they are more dominant than you. Remember, dogs are more observant than you think! Don't believe it?-Check our this PBS special! You and your family should sit down, eat your dinner, and only feed your puppy after you are complete. Feeding time is also a great teaching time. I like to get a bit of training in with these 4 quick steps:

1. Poor the food into your puppy's bowl and show him the food.
2. Before placing the bowl on the ground, make your puppy sit.
3. After he sits, put the food bowl on the ground, but don't let him get to it yet. Hold him back for a moment or two while you say "stay."
4. Finally, let your puppy dig in as the reward.

Meal after meal of practice will help teach your puppy to sit, stay, and be patient.

Biting

Never let your puppy's playful mouthing become a forceful nip. As I mentioned in Training Tips #3, use your assertive "No" with a gentle tap on the nose to tell your puppy nipping is not okay. Gone unchecked, nipping can turn into the bad habit of biting.

Playing Vs. Fighting

Puppies are playful creatures and playing with people and toys is an important part of their development. Yet not all "games" are okay, and some can even lead to lasting bad habits. Tug-of-war is a classic game that both humans and dogs love to play. But just like on the playground at school, tug-of-war is a game to establish strength and dominance. While playing tug-of-war, your puppy thinks it has a chance of winning dominance over you. This is a game that should be avoided. Playing with a ball, on the other hand, is a great game for your puppy. The best way to turn ball play into a training technique is to teach your puppy to fetch. Reward your puppy greatly when it bring the ball back to you. If it doesn't, simply ignore it. Too many inexperienced trainers will call and call for the dog when it doesn't return the ball. Yet calling it's name is giving it attention. The worst punishment a dog can have is being ignored. So if your puppy decides to run with the ball and not bring it back, just turn your back and say nothing to it.

Training Tips #3: Starting Training

After your dog gets comfortable with your home, meets some new dogs and people, learns the basics of "No," and begins on the process of house training, it's time for some early learning of other commands. It's easy to get frustrated with your dog during this stage. Avoid scolding your dog at all costs. Often the mix between scolding and praising will confuse a young puppy. If you constantly scold your dog, it will learn to run away much faster than it will learn to "come."

"Come" Command
Many puppies instinctually come to you when you talk, move or do just about anything. This makes it easy for them to learn that when their name it called, it means "come." Try calling your puppy by its name and rewarding it with a treat when it comes. This simple command if often the easiest thing to teach a young dog. If your puppy doesn't pick up on the command so quickly, don't loose patience. For some puppies it will take much longer to learn than for others.

Walking with a Leash
Training Tips #1 discusses the different kinds of collars you should consider trying out. When the proper collar is selected, its time to learn how to walk with a leash. This is another one of those things that some new dog owners forget actually has to be learned. But think about it, it would be pretty odd for you to suddenly have limited control over where you are free to stroll. The same feeling goes for dogs. It is not uncommon for puppies to try to scratch off their collar the first time you put it on. Try to distract your puppy with a toy or petting for the first few minutes. Next you will need to attach a leash. As I mentioned in the earlier post, let your puppy run freely with the leash dragging for a few minutes. When you do pick up the leash, hold it lightly at first and don't tug on it. The goal here is to get your puppy accustomed to the new feeling, not to take your puppy on a forced march. Finally, hold treats by your side to direct your puppy where to walk. Bribery is the best tactic for teaching your dog to walk with you.

Car Sickness
Some basic signs that your puppy is experiencing car-sickness include whining, drooling, uneasiness, and vomiting. When I first got my puppy, his car-sickness was so bad I took him into my local Denver Veterinarian. My vet told me that overcoming car-sickness is actually a matter of early training. It's extremely important that if you encounter the car-sickness problem, you deal with it quickly. If ignored, your dog will learn to fear the car and can develop the reflex of salivating upon being put into a car. A few simple tactics for overcoming mild car-sickness are facing your dog forward in the car and rolling down the windows. A light breeze and even pressure is sometimes a quick cure for the problem. Other times, just driving your puppy for short periods can fix the problem. If a puppy knows he can go in the car without vomiting at least for a short while, longer trips because easier and easier. Unfortunately for my puppy, this strategy wasn't enough. We ended up taking another trip into my veterinarian in Denver at which point my vet recommended travel sickness pills for long trips. I give these pills for my dog about an hour before a long drive. One side-effect seems to be sleepiness but apart from that the pills have cured the problem. Most dogs will overcome the problem in time. It is crucial however, that you address it early.

For more discussion of the car-sickness problem, see here.

Training Tips #2: First Steps

Some owners give up on the training process because they convince themselves that their dog just can't learn it. This is almost never the case. Think about it, between seeing eye dogs, police dogs, and dogs in the movies, the species can sure learn amazing things. So if you're dog is struggling with a simple "stay" or "sit," the truth is, it's probably not the dog that's struggling - it's you. If a dog can learn to sniff out drugs and bombs, your dog can definitely learn some simple obedience. Besides, dogs enjoy being trained. They look for ways to please their owners and love the challenge of learning new things.

Socializing
In Training Tips #1, I wrote about the first steps when bringing home your new dog. Mainly, not to overwhelm them and to take things slowly at first. But when your puppy or new dog gets adjusted to the home environment, meeting new people and new dogs is extremely important. My Denver Veterinarian is adamant that the more your puppy socializes with other dogs and humans, the less likely they are to develop behavioral problems later in life. When your puppy meets new people, have them hold him so that he begins to understands that humans are friendly. Your puppy should get its second round of vaccinations before coming into close contact with other dogs. While your puppy's immune system is still developing, it is more susceptible to catching viruses from other dogs (other dogs you own are an exception to this rule because you can be sure that the other dog has had his vaccinations). I waited until my veterinarian in Denver gave me the two-thumbs-up (about 12-weeks old) before introducing my new puppy to the neighborhood dogs.

Beginning to Learn
One of the most difficult aspects of training for new dog owners to learn is that scolding is okay. Sometimes it's difficult to speak harshly to an innocent puppy, yet it is absolutely necessary to establish your dominance. Learning what "No" means is the fist thing puppies need to learn. A simple technique is to give your puppy a slight tap on the nose while sternly saying "No" when they begin to engage in bad behavior like chewing a shoe. Soon you puppy will learn that the word "No" and that the action of getting tapped on the nose means to stop doing something.

When a puppy nips or bites someone, it is in indication that they believe they are dominant over the person they nipped. This is another instance where it is crucial to give a tap and a loud "No" so your puppy learns at an early age that nipping is not okay. A common mistake first time dog trainers run into is thinking that the gentle nipping is "puppy play" or just "cute." If this habit is left unchecked it can develop into a biting problem at a later age.

House Training
House training should be a top priority in the training process to avoid carpet stains and constant clean-up. Just like we aren't born into this world potty-trained, puppies will come to your house with no concept of where and where not to go to the bathroom. The good news is, relieving themselves outside is actually in a dogs nature. If a puppy were to continue to live with its mother, it would begin to imitate how its mother relieves herself outside. Soon it would naturally learn to be completely house trained. But because you are now your puppy's mother, you're going to have to do the teaching. The staff at my Denver Animal Hospital recommend two techniques for house-training your puppy. For the first technique, when you see your puppy go into that hunched position and you know they are about to go, immediately pick him up and take him outside. This method will help your puppy learn quickly but the downside is that you must always be watching. Dog Whisperer Cesar Millan always says that rewarding your puppy with a treat after it relieves itself outside will help your puppy learn even faster. The second method is a bit more complicated but requires less watching. You should cover the floor where your dog plays with newspaper so that your puppy gets used to going on the newspaper. Over the course of a few days, gradually make the newspaper surface smaller. Eventually, when your puppy is only performing is natural duties in one area, move that newspaper outside. Your puppy will then learn that it should only relieve itself out side. The best strategy is to actually use these two methods simultaneously. So set-up the newspaper but if you catch your dog about to go, pick him up and carrying him outside. Good luck!